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Running with the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain

Project type

Pamplona

Date

July 2023

Location

Pamplona, Spain

Some moments in life are so unexpected, so wildly thrilling, that they feel like something out of a movie. For me, that moment was when my son called me from Spain during his summer study abroad program and casually said, “Hey Mom, I think I want to run with the bulls.”

Within days, I had booked a flight and flew across the Atlantic to Spain, where I would stand on a balcony, heart pounding, watching my son (and my ex-husband!) take part in one of the world’s most adrenaline-fueled traditions: the Running of the Bulls.

Let me just say, Pamplona is electric. The city bursts to life during San Fermín, a ten-day festival held every July. From the moment I arrived, I felt like I had stepped into the Spanish version of Mardi Gras. The energy, the music, the dancing, the round-the-clock celebration, it was like Bourbon Street on Red Bull.

Every morning during the festival, the bulls are released around 8:00 AM for their infamous run through the narrow, cobblestoned streets of Pamplona. The tradition is known as “El Encierro,” and the energy is nothing short of palpable. You can feel the tension rise as the runners gather, dressed in traditional white outfits with red scarves tied around their necks, waiting for the sound of the cannon that signals the bulls’ release.

I was lucky enough to find an Airbnb with a balcony that gave me the perfect view of the action. From above, I watched the chaos unfold: people sprinting, bulls thundering down the streets, and my heart barely keeping rhythm as I tracked my son, praying he made it through safely.

Thankfully, he did. Watching him finish that run was one of the proudest and most surreal moments of my life. And then... it was party time. By 8:30 AM, the streets were already packed with locals and tourists drinking, singing, and celebrating.

But there’s another side to the tradition that often surprises visitors: at the end of the day, the bulls that run in the morning are used in the bullfights that take place in the evening. The matadors enter the arena, and the bulls are ultimately killed as part of the cultural ritual. It's a controversial aspect, especially for those unfamiliar with bullfighting traditions, but in Spain, it's considered a deeply rooted part of their history and identity.

Pamplona itself is a beautiful city filled with medieval charm, warm people, and deep tradition. During San Fermín, every corner feels alive with music, parades, dancing, and street performances. You can stumble into a random bar and find locals clapping to live flamenco, or walk past a plaza bursting with kids, families, and elders celebrating together.

Some fun facts about Pamplona and the San Fermín Festival:

-Ernest Hemingway helped make the festival world-famous with his novel The Sun Also Rises, published in 1926.

-The festival starts with a massive opening ceremony called "El Chupinazo", where thousands gather in front of City Hall to kick off the festivities with champagne and celebration.

-Pamplona is one of the last cities in the world where traditional bullfighting continues, and while controversial, it's still embraced as cultural heritage in many parts of Spain.

-Locals wear white with red sashes and scarves, a tradition linked to Saint Fermín.

Would I recommend going?
Absolutely! But go with an open mind, a strong stomach, and a desire to immerse yourself in one of the most unique cultural experiences in the world. Whether you're cheering from a balcony like I did or (gulp) running the streets, Pamplona during San Fermín is something you’ll never forget.

Travel Tips:
-Book early! Accommodations fill up fast during San Fermín. Try to get a balcony view of the bull run if you can.

-Dress like a local: White outfit, red scarf, and maybe leave your sandals at home, those cobblestones are no joke.

-Respect the culture: While it may not align with your beliefs, it's important to approach traditions with curiosity and understanding.

Takeaway:
Watching my son run with the bulls in Pamplona was something I never expected, but it turned into one of the most exciting and memorable chapters of our story. Life has a funny way of surprising you when you’re open to adventure.

Would I go again? In a heartbeat.
Would I run with the bulls? I’ll leave that to the brave ones.

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